The summer that I was nineteen, I baked bread nearly every day. The obsession began during Passover that year. As you know, when you aren't supposed to eat something, it is very hard to stop thinking about it. I spent the entire week dreaming of fluffy loaves of bread and, when the holiday ended, the bread in the dining hall just couldn't satisfy the craving. So when I got home for the summer, I checked Bernard Clayton out of the library, purchased pounds of flour and packets of yeast, and got to work. Nearly every morning, I would wake up, mix and knead some dough, set it to rise, punch it down, let it rise again, shape it, proof it, stick it in the oven, and get it out just in time to drive off to my job at Starbucks, where I would fantasize about baking as I pulled espresso shots (actually, they usually had me on register rather than pulling shots, but the former image seems more romantic). I made all kinds of breads, from sandwich loaves, to challahs, to gooey cheese breads, crusty French breads, and puffy sourdoughs. The one thing I never made, though, was a good whole wheat bread. I tried but, for the life of me, just couldn't get it to rise properly. I remember once stuffing two pounds of dough down the garbage disposal because two hours after kneading, it hadn't risen at all.
Fast forward nearly ten years, through my dark no-bread phase, to this past month, when I have been eating more and more bread. Enough bread, in fact, that between David and myself, we are easily going through a loaf in less than a week. And at $6 a loaf at Zingerman's, well, you get the idea. So I decided to revisit my old avocation and see if I could put together a good bread. All I had in my cupboard was whole-wheat pastry flour, which wouldn't do at all. Pastry flour is low in gluten (wheat protein), which is the element that allows bread to rise. So I went to the co-op, picked up a lovely bag of organic whole wheat flour (which for some reason was less than $1 a pound), and threw in a box of vital wheat gluten for a bit of insurance. Then I got it home and had to figure out what to do with it.
Obviously, I know how to bake bread. But I also knew that I wasn't about to do it the way I had always done. To begin with, I just don't have it in me anymore to clean up the flour that inevitably flies to the floor during the kneading process. Also, I now work during the day (rather than from 5pm to 1am), so I can't sit around waiting for it to rise so I can punch it down at just the right moment. I needed a new technique, and I managed to get my hands on a brand-new copy of Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day. The basic principles are that if you make a wetter than usual dough, it will rise without having to be kneaded, and that it will stay fresh in the fridge so that you can make the dough once every two weeks (this part takes about 15 minutes, and then it rises for however long you feel like leaving it) and then you can have a fresh loaf of bread in about an hour with only five minutes of active time to shape the loaf. The catch, though, is that the recipes are mainly written for white flour and I had only whole wheat. Yes, I could have gone back to the co-op to buy white flour (they do, in fact, sell it there), but I prefer whole-wheat and was ready for a challenge.
Using whole-wheat flour, I knew I was going to have to use less flour and add some gluten, and I also threw in some extra yeast for good measure. I also doubted that the no-knead technique would work with 100% whole wheat, so I mixed it in the food processor just to get a bit of extra agitation. Here it is right after mixing:
After hanging out near the heating vent for about three hours, it looked like this:
At this point, I introduced David to our new pet, Yeastie Boy, and put him to bed in the fridge (Yeastie Boy, not David!). In the morning, I cut off a quarter of his bulk, and shaped him into a boule:
An hour later, he was slashed and ready to bake:
After twenty-five minutes in the oven:
This was a very small loaf, but it made a good breakfast:
(that would be Greek yogurt and stewed prunes alongside my bread). The rest of the dough made a nice dinner:
and a couple of loaves of ciabatta:
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